Vinterlagring

[Vod0]

Nå skal sykkelen parkeres. En Honda CB500, 2015 mod.

Hva bør gjøres? Oljen er relativt ny, ble byttet på førstegangsservice i slutten av Juli, og kjørt 2000km med. Må jeg bytte den nå før jeg parkerer den, eller kan jeg vente til sesongstart? Planen var å bytte når sesongen skal starte igjen. 

 

Hva annet bør gjøre, enn å vaske den da. Tenkte å ta ut batteriet for å lade fult opp, og lade på nytt til sesongen starter. 

[steinrawr]

Jeg bytter kosekvent olje i starten av sesongen, men har ikke noe særlig god begrunnelse for at jeg gjør det slik. 

 

• Jeg vasker og polerer alle overflater jeg kommer til, tar en skikkelig kjedevask, og godt med smøring på kjedet. 
• lar batteriene stå i, men kobler av minus-polen på alt unntatt en hurtikoblingen til batteriladeren min.
• Setter sykkelen på midtstøtta for å avlaste bakdekket, og ideelt sett skulle jeg løftet opp dekket foran også for at det ikke skal stå i kontakt med fukt hele vinteren. Fyller litt ekstra luft i dekkene også. 
• Fyller full tank med bensin for å unngå mest mulig kondens i tanken
• Har låsolje i låsesylindre

 

Syklene mine står utendørs under tak om vinteren, men dekkes godt til slik at de ikke blir stående i snø, og for værutsatt.

 

Når jeg setter inn til vinterlagring tar jeg også en ekstra kontroll på at alt virker som det skal. Det kan være, kjede, svingarm, blinklys, dempere, visuell sjekk av dekk, plast, osv, slik at jeg kan planlegge å utbedre det enten ila vinteren eller når jeg tar oljeskiftet før sesongen starter.

[Habla Møberg]

ACF-50, antikorrosjonsolje. Sprayes over hele sykkelen, unntatt på bremseskivene. Handler på nett i England. Denne oljefilmen er ypperlig til å holde korrosjon borte. Jeg bruker den på mine sykler hele året, foruten på div hageredskap, trøsykler etc. Alt som kan ruste. Er og fint å spraye inn i elektromekaniske innretninger som lysbrytere, kontakter, m.m. 

[steinrawr]

Godt tips om ACF-50. 
 
Reddit har en fersk tråd om vinterlagring og prepping: https://www.reddit.com/r/Fixxit/comments/5b0bsv/how_to_winterize_your_cycle_longterm_storage_tips/

Alrighty - here is a quick little write-up regarding long-term storage of your motorcycle, whether for winter, going to school, or some other planned downtime.

Before you begin your storage procedure, you should do any routine maintenance you've been putting off until now - fully inspect all of your fluids, chassis fasteners, brakes, chain, charging system, maybe change your spark plugs - give your bike a once over on everything significant so you know that it is in good order for you when it gets nice out and you want to hit the road. It's really disappointing when you pull out your bike on the first nice day and you need to wait 10 days for parts.

• Firstly, run the bike for a bit to warm it up to operating temperature, then drain and change your oil. Old oil has acids, carbon, and other crud in it that you don't want your clutch etc. sitting in long-term.
• Drain the carbs so the float bowls are dry. This prevents fuel from spoiling in the carbs which is why they get gummy over time - no fuel = no gummy carbs. "Running it until it dies" is not the recommended method of draining the fuel, because the bike will stall due to fuel starvation long before the carbs are DRY. Open the float bowl drains and properly EMPTY the carbs.
• Next add stabilizer to the tank if you intend to use it - this is optional and opinions vary.
• Now fill the tank the rest of the way with non-ethanol fuel (if available in your area). The reason for this is because you do not want your tank to rust. Rust = oxidation, therefore no oxygen = no rust; full tanks have no air in them. Special note, ethanol fuels have a shelf life of about 60 days before they start to separate and break down. This is a non-issue during regular use but becomes troublesome when left to sit.
• Put a rubber glove or something similar over the muffler tips to prevent mice/bugs/dust from finding a lovely home inside your muffler/headers/exhaust valves/cylinders. *You can also add scented dryer sheets near the air filter - the stuff marketed to keep your pants from smelling like a bad burrito - mice and rats really dislike these chemical scents, and it seems they particularly love to munch on paper style air filters. It can't hurt in any case.
• Disconnect the battery from the bike and add a trickle charger, or even better bring the battery into a heated space and trickle - 0.5 amp is sufficient.
• Store on center stand if you have one equipped. This keeps things nice and level. Often gaskets can leak if exposed to more oil than intended when the bike leans, and the other side of the bike can have the gaskets dry out from no oil exposure! Store upright to help prevent these things.
• Add a carpet/cardboard square under the tires so they aren't in direct contact with concrete, and deflate them about 5 psi from service pressure. These steps will help prevent dry cracking/checking due to age.
• If you have one, use a dust cover over the whole bike.

To reiterate, you want empty carbs to prevent gumming them up, but a full tank to prevent rusting. If it's stored longer than 4 months, you can try starting it with starting fluid but you may need to drain/dump the fuel rather than try to run it in spring - at least that fuel is a rust prohibitive. If stored for less time, the bike will usually run off fuel, although it might not be totally smooth, it should at least run although you may need starting fluid into the intake.

These steps combined are a great way to keep a cycle fresh for a very long time, not just over a couple of months. If your absence is going to be longer than 6 months, have someone start and run the cycle every 3-6 months for 15 minutes or so if possible and drain the carbs again afterward. Longer than 12 months? Give the bike to me and I'll make sure it sees the sun!